Judy Wu
For her Spring Summer collection, Judy Wu’s presentation allowed us to be even closer with her designs. As neo-futuristic pieces hung from the ceiling, Wu allowed us to understand the real shape and texture of her designs. Wu played with shape throughout her “Curve” Collection.
Curved silhouettes incorporated with streamlined designs throughout the collection brought forward the notion of how the pieces were designed to structure and enhance the female form. The sport luxe style was a prominent theme throughout the collection as the geometric layout and neon colours such as oranges and yellows. This, along with trainers splattered with paint at the bottom of the mannequins, depicted that Wu’s designs are for women who get to where they want to be in a way that is comfortable to them, highlighting female independence. The inclusion of Wu’s new bag range, Ling, name after her mother into her SS17 also helped to solidify that this was a collection that wasn’t just there to look good but a collection that is practical as well as desirable.
APUJAN
It’s safe to say that floral is here to stay for another year. As seen on so many designer runways this season from Gucci, Michael Kors and Rohmir, it was clear to see that APUJAN had also gotten the memo. Taking the leading fashion trend this season and using it to open his show, his light blue floral coat with faint pinstripe detailing gave us summer outwear with a fragrant twist.
However, APUJAN didn’t dedicate his whole collection to this season’s floral safety net. Instead he allowed himself to go further, dedicating himself to female tailoring, pinstripes and distressed denim. He showed us that culottes are here to stay as well as summery ruffled pleating. In true JAN fashion, we saw his music director DJ Question Mark allow his musical talent and inspiration to fill the Freemason Hall as his PROJECT APJ performed throughout the show, allowing the APJ brand to come together in a multi-level runway show performance.
House of Mea
Although representing three different designers from the Middle East and Asia, House of Mea allowed their show to let buyers know that women’s (and men’s) tailoring is at the forefront of fashion this Spring Summer season.
Annderstand depicted this perfectly by showcasing their collection boldly with monochrome pieces. Velvet also worked effortlessly onto the designs in the form of culottes and off the shoulder dresses highlighting the collections playfulness.
Designer Studio HJ used its collection to showcase the power of block colours this SS17 season. Off the shoulder, tightly fitted designs allowed Studio HJ to remain on trend. Light and elegant designs opened the show wondrously.
Nivedita Saboo ended the show memorably with male models powerfully walking out to the infectious and timeless beat of the White Stripes’ Seven Nation Army. We continued to see tailoring taking centre stage with a dramatic twist as models wore blazers combined with leather and copious amounts of sparkle that would give Edward Cullen a run for his money.
Belts were a core accessory for Saboo’s womenswear pieces this season, appearing as a harness for dresses and also cinching in models at the waist. The collection played with classic and traditional styles, there were elements of a gothic and debauched nature that crept sexily into Saboo’s work allowing us to see why Saboo’s work has been highly respected all over the world.
Malan Breton
When watching Malan Breton’s SS17 show it felt as though we opened a door and fell into a magical world that we weren’t supposed to witness. With romantic classical music filling the room in a dramatic way, we couldn’t help but to think that we’d stepped into a fanatical land that we would reluctantly want to escape from.
The music worked in unison with the designs such as Breton’s floral dark green trench coats for both men and women, as well as similar prints on chiffon dresses, there was a richness about his collection that we hadn’t witnessed in many other designs from the weekend. Blood red pant suits with black trimming alluded to the confidence that would take over women in Breton’s designs classic designs.
Denim pant suits for both menswear and womenswear were exaggerated in a way that felt unlike any other that we had seen – with regards to denim – on the catwalk (and we’ve seen many ways). Watching dark denim pant suits and trench coats with clear golden stitching on elongated limbs of the models created a sleek and structured look. Breton created a strong sense of vibrancy amongst his collection with dynamic colours and a mythical ambience that added to the desire for each piece that came down the runway.
TOKEN
For TOKEN’s presentation they made it all about the visuals. As dancers free-styled to the beats and lyrics of Post Malone and Travis Scott, we got to really understand the movement and the vibe of the SS17 collection. Taking place at Covent Garden’s White Space, the venue helped to create an intimate and eclectic environment, allowing us to take in every aspect of the designs.
Once again, the floral trend had worked it’s way back in. Denim, t-shirts and bomber jackets saw the addictive trend situated cooly onto the Suicide Squad inspired collection. It was definitely about stand out and bold pieces, as there was a dark and slightly misfitted aspect to their designs, adding to the rebellious and romantic charm that TOKEN humbly exudes in their creations. TOKEN allowed onlookers to understand just how their designs reflected the men and women who would wear their clothes, a collection that was ultimately all about being free and dancing to your own beat.
Photography by Aisha Pegley
Peter Jensen
The seasons seem to be changing quicker than ever, but Danish-born designer Peter Jensen managed to make our grey and overcast Saturday morning feel as bright as the sunshine we have so drastically just lost. The garden and Lady Rhoda Birley-inspired set design quickly transported our minds from a dull London day to a summery Scandinavian scene filled with foliage so beautiful even those in a hurry had to stop and take in the breathtaking environment, if only to centre themselves to a place of stillness and tranquility.
As models made their way through the abstract garden greenhouse at the Institute of Contemporary Arts, Jensen’s collection showed us the beauty of Scandinavian design – minimal and classic silhouettes, with gingham prints and vibrant colours. Simplicity was given character with accessories such as tall brimmed hats and traditional footwear as models wore clogs, making us feel as though summer was nowhere near over.
Rohmir
Womenswear designer Rohmir continued this season’s trend of floral prints with her garden estate inspired collection. From the beginning of the show, Rohmir made us understand that this was a collection not only inspired by beautiful foliage but also the elegance and beauty of the feminine form. Dancers opened the show gracefully performing around the catwalk, followed by an array of models wearing designs that highlighted the power of a floral print.
Rohmir incorporated diversity into her collection by using three key styles and patterns to help reflect the classic woman: lace, sequins and floral summer dresses that stood out for all occasions. All black evening dresses added to the sophistication and aesthetic. Dancers ended the show along with models carrying bouquets of flowers, once again emphasising the power of foliage this season.
ROBERTS | WOOD
The ICA also played host to ROBERTS | WOOD’s SS17 collection and the presentation was a truly stunning affair. The London based designer transformed the space into a monochrome affair with sheer embroidered sheets placed coolly around the catwalk area.
So quiet you could almost hear a pin drop, models displayed Roberts-Wood’s collection with pure confidence as they wore sheer oversized and ruffled styles that still managed to hug the women’s bodies in a feminine way. We saw how textures and materials such as denim and cotton pieces could be manipulated creating the same style but in a more dynamic way.
As models came onto the catwalk, standing side by side and leaning on one another as part of the routine, we saw how this collection paid homage to the solidarity of female design and the female form. Altogether the collection was exhibited beautifully and we saw ROBERTS | WOOD staying true to the aesthetic she has become so well known to use.
Photography by Savannah Small-Swaby
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